Gucci dynasty

November 5, 2003, earthquake in the fashion industry. Gucci Group and its largest shareholder Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (referred to as PPR) announced, Gucci design director Tom? Ford (Tom Ford) and Gucci Group CEO Domenico de Sole will be in the following year on April 30 expiry of leave. After the news came out, the industry a sigh. Tom? Ford, the fashion industry a handful of stars, in less than a decade, will be forgotten Gucci brink of bankruptcy in this old brand into a market value of two billion dollars reborn fashion kingdom.
Tom? Ford era
Mid-90s, because of poor management coupled with old fashioned outdated design, Gucci has entered the history of the darkest period. In 1994, only 28-year-old Ford stepped in and became Gucci’s creative director. And different from those personalized designer, in addition to the design with extraordinary talent, Ford also has considerable commercial sensitivity. He declared: “In today’s fashion industry, apparel design itself is not the most important, the most important thing is that this brand positioning and image.” From the beginning at the helm, Ford decided to completely abandon the original GUCCI slightly old fashioned in the market that image, with “decadent and sensual” Instead, in order to respond to the then somewhat provocative manner, “On the nature of the mere mention of” extreme fear of AIDS society.
March 1995, GUCCI women’s show in Milan’s garden club, had begun, the crowd filled with journalists and buyers, people watching, GUCCI Ford’s hands look like? When the hall’s dim the lights, the speaker was ringing s stirring music, a bouquet of white spotlight shining on the performance stage. Then, model Amber Valetta came out. She wore a dark green silk quality shirts, buttons almost open to the navel, low rise tight velvet jeans, a dark green mohair coat jacket. Her feet on a swing wearing a new orange-grain leather flat slope with mouth shoes, messy hair, cover your eyes and lips, pale pink face looming. Audience with the beat of rock music with a chair, constantly cheered.
Media response to the show can be “fanatical” to describe, people can not wait for the kind words thrown Ford:
“Show full of heat and sexy!” – Neimanmake department stores, senior vice president Joan? Cana
“Full of the sexy exhibition captures the audience firmly fashion de The Harper” magazine
“Another Karl? Lafeierde !”–” New York Times” Fashion critic Amy? Spindler
Tom? Ford, born in 1962 in the United States, Texas, he spent in New Mexico before the age of 20 years, until the New York University. He chose the environmental design major, but until graduation, he did not realize their true dreams in the fashion industry. Tom resolutely to Europe? Ford finally realized where his fashion dreams. In addition to product design for Gucci, Tom? Ford will also participate in Gucci’s brand image and advertising design, with their own ways to sell things beautifully – so advertising can bear close to the bottom line of ethics. He invited the famous French fashion designer Kai Ruien? 罗伊费尔德 (Carine Roitfeld) and photographer Mario? Taisitenuo (Mario Testino) with him will be initiated by Gucci onto the giant sexy tone posters: model Valletta (Aurber Valletta) is placed in the middle of the two men, advertising following the words “family of three.” In addition, there are two women wearing Gucci clothes watching each other, the screen filled with the hazy atmosphere of homosexuality. This bold vision direct challenge to the people the bottom line, but it tells you not only of that simple, is not shallow grandstanding. He is keen to let people use, or the women know the power of sex and beauty, let people know Gucci can show such a wonderful, so a woman has not only charm but the Power (strength).
Tom? Led Ford in 1995, Gucci’s sales soared, almost doubled to 500 million U.S. dollars, net income increased more than 3 times, to 81.4 million U.S. dollars. The next year, sales continue to grow 67% to 881 million U.S. dollars, net profit more than doubled, to 168 million U.S. dollars. Ford’s achievements are obvious, to 1999, the company’s total assets have reached 430 million U.S. dollars.
Although Ford has brought wealth to Gucci, but the club Investment Group (INVEST CORP.) Obviously has not met in March 1999 Gucci announced the French background Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (PPR) alliance, an independent brand developed into a diversified brands. By this time, who have made major contributions toward the Ford, Gucci began right there on business interests. In terms of the contract, Ford PPR request to the Gucci brand management and design autonomy, and the Gucci Group acquired the brand in recent years and future development rights. Business is business, PPR had invested 2.9 billion U.S. dollars as Gucci’s largest shareholder, is to be the absolute master at Gucci. Although the loss of Tom Ford adventure, but PPR hand over decision-making people in the business operation is not possible, so Ford had to leave.
When Ford announced that he would leave Gucci, the fashion industry outcry, and even Karl? Lafeierde (Karl Lagerfeld) are out of it: “Gucci is wrong, like Tom? Ford design talent and business sense that people have been very few mergers He can not be replaced. ”
The back of a family
Close to a century of history, Tom? Ford to the twists and turns and to cause only Gucci fashion ups and downs in the history of the Kingdom of the recent scene.
In 1906, a man named Guccio? Gucci (Guccio Gucci) Italian boy left home to Florence, was removed to London, the famous Savoy Hotel to find a luggage work. Guests from the first day with senior executives of this, the hands of the trunk, suitcase, hat box … … is made of leather, and beautifully carved and engraved with the names of British high society as if the first letter of the gathering, This allows Guccio eye-opener. Before long, this clever young man to know the line head according to the guests determine their wealth and taste. 16 years later, in 1922, Guccio learned in London with his vision and a savings to return to Italy, in Florence’s most famous upscale Shoppes Street opened the first bag leather shop – is called Gucci.
In 1939, Gucci’s four sons have joined, Gucci also transformed by the individual business family business. In 1953 the first overseas branch in Manhattan opened its 58th Avenue, Gucci has also jumped into an international brand. It is worth mentioning that, Gucci is the ancestor of today’s product branding, to protect the quality, it will brand name printed on their products, this is the first in the history of the world fashion.
50,60 last century’s, Gucci has attracted, including Ge Lisi? Carey, Hepburn, Jacqueline? Kennedy and the Duchess of Windsor, such as a large number of celebrity customers, numbered 0633 of bamboo to handbags, with a “mini-Flora “Flower of the scarf, and 360 models deerskin flat boots, until now, people are still being regarded as a classic.
Gucci family business in the last 70 years actually reached a historical peak, “New York Times” This period is called “Gucci Mania” (Gucci crazy), and described in the text Gucci mad them: “face wear with GUCCI sunglasses, Gucci scarves tied around his neck, shoulders back a Gucci Guabao, wearing wrist watches GUCCI, GUCCI wearing leather pants, a pair of Gucci shoes, feet, of course. ”
Development of family enterprises has also brought internal strife, the next decade, Gucci drama of struggle for power within the family escalated, the infighting into open battle; and Gucci brands began to decline due to neglect of care . Lacks many of the franchise agreement and to consider expansion plans Gucci brand into the mass market.
In 1985, the U.S. investment group bought the Gucci family, the company held 50% of Gucci shares, 8 years later on, he bought 150 million U.S. dollars left the other half. At this point, Gucci as a family business, run its full course.
Designer brands from time to time
2004, Tom? Ford’s departure, is also seen as a new fashion era. Sensitive industry analysts say: the fate of star designer brand-led era is over. When a brand has a diversified product range covering every corner of life, take the high fashion route taking into account the popular image, the overall importance of design has been diluted, such as Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren. To shake the foundation of a brand is definitely more difficult than people imagine.
Operators in the financial operation of the strategy used in the fashion industry who, through analysis, calculation and a factor to minimize the impact on the overall situation, the designer’s influence is one of them. If brand awareness, and investors will have no problem with it, as long as the brand team’s strength is strong enough, the main designer of the Lord is not easy to end.
Gucci’s design team is currently little or Ford had the effect of the same people, Frida? Zanini (Frida Giannini) and other four creative director at the Tom? Ford still in time, it has been in the Group as the role of the soul. “The luxury master Gucci’s sexy style, I am not familiar with.” Frieda said.
When Frida for Gucci made the first release of the 2006 spring and summer, when the quarter, sales increased by Gucci Women 10 percentage points. Faced with this performance, this new Division would have designers ready to vigorously critical of the media have begun to have to commend Frida’s talent was.
Today’s Gucci After several years of acquisitions, mergers, has successfully diversified its own brand grow into a luxury behemoth, sits on Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, Sergio Ross, Boucheron International SA, Alexander McQueen, Bottega Veneta, Stella McCartney and many other fashion big, entrenched in the global luxury goods market.
86 years, Gucci stake several times, often desperate every students. Some people came, it was gone, but in the hearts of consumers, it is always that double-G, LOGO, as Gucci’s current president, Robert? Porrett (Mr.Robert B Polet) In an interview with “Time Magazine” during the interview said: “The luxury brand is more important than the product itself. Because of you first of all is to buy a brand, followed by the product. brand to the people the opportunity to achieve their dreams. People want to belong to some kind of world they want … …”