On the few occasions I’ve ventured into Brooks Brothers I’ve felt like an anemic waterboy lost in a forest of retired linebackers. It’s one of the all-time classic American brands for men so what a bummer to find that nothing there fits me. Part of the problem is their boxy, traditional American cuts which just hang off a guy like me. But that could soon change.
Last fall, Brooks Brothersannouncedthey were forminga new creative concept for the brand — a laboratory for guest designers chosen for their forward-thinking vision and youthful application of fashion trends. Creators will be invited to present capsule collections produced and marketed by Brooks Brothers in their stores across America, as well as their shops in London, Milan, Paris, Tokyo and throughout Asia.A few weeks ago at a show at their Madison Avenue flagship, BBdebuted the first concoctionscreated in this laboratory by their first guest designer, Thom Browne. His new Black Fleece collection rolls out in stores this coming fall. Of course all the models werebeanpole tall, but his line could still be a boon for short and/or skinny men. This could just be wishful thinking on my part, but the review on Men.style.com (Details & GQ) seems to confirm that the signature TB cut that anemic waterboys everywhere love, are still in evidence:“On the issue of proportion, Browne sent a clear message: The mainstream would have to come to him. A high-and-tight aesthetic pervaded, whether in widely cuffed floods, nicely paired with pebble-grain ankle boots, or a formfitting white dinner jacket embroidered with the Brooks sheep logo.”“High and tight.”
That’s one of the most effective pages out of the waterboy playbook.As for price, I can only hope that Brooks’ Black Fleece pieces would be cheaper than Thom’s own boutique line. According to Men.style.com, “prices not yet set, but expect to pay significantly more than normal Brooks prices, owing to the high level of hand-tailoring,” but that could still work out to be a savings. And most of Black Fleece also seems a bit tamer than Thom’s own stuff which implies a bit more longevity. See you there in the fall.
It’s on. Brooks Brothers is gearing up to launch the fall collection of Black Fleece the second week of September with an “exclusive, by-appointment-only” trunk show with Thom Browne at their Madison Ave. store. It started yesterday and ends tomorrow (Call 212-885-6811). Fashion Week Daily reported back in July that on a much grander scale, BB’s already embarked “on the largest print ad campaign push in the company’s 189-year history — an estimated $7 million initiative”? As the inimitably venerable “oldest surviving men’s clothier in the United States” prepares to drop $7 mil on him, Thom took a few moments away from finishing up his spring Black Fleece collection to answer some “Random Questions” from The Fashion Informer yesterday. Stuff like “What did you eat for lunch today? Tuna salad on white toast,” and “What was your favorite subject in junior high school? Phys Ed.”
Why should short men care? As I’ve raved before, Thom Browne’s own boutique line of “shrunken” suits may look kinda idiosyncratic (many would say bad) on Thom, his super-tall models, or even men of average height, those same suits look absolutely proportional on small men. So I’ve been hoping that Brooks Brothers’ Black Fleece would maintain his perfect-for-short-guys silhouette and sizing — at half the price of a “real” TB.
You can never have too many shoes
: a good size collection will provide a wonderful outlet for personal expression and help to complete or compeiment an outfit. Whether you love dress shoes
, casual
, boots
, sneakers
, or sandals
, this guide will help you find the style that is right for you.
Fitting and Sizing
Finding the proper size is, without a doubt, the most difficult part of the shoe buying process. The length of your foot definitely plays a part, but other factors, such as width, arch and the activity for which you will use the shoe, will change the size. To complicate matters, sizing will change from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to international standards. The most important part in finding the perfect shoe is how it feels on your foot, because if you don’t like how it feels, you are not likely to wear it once it’s been purchased.
Tips
The best deals on shoes are often found online, as plenty of major shoe brands are being sold at outlet prices across the web. However, if the fit is wrong or they don’t look right, there is the hassle of shipping them back. To avoid this inconvenience and still get the most for your money, here are some helpful hints:
- Go window shopping for shoes in your favorite brand stores.
- Pick out several styles you like and test them for the size.
- Always bring extra socks
and stockings
with you to see how they will fit with what you will wear.
- Take note of any areas that pinch, chafe or squeeze. You may need to go up a half-size or add an insole, cushion, or padding.
- Make sure to wear both shoes at once and walk around in them. The heel may slip a little, but never should slip more than an inch; that means that they are too big. This rule goes for lace-ups, flats, boots, and the like, but not for high heels. Keep slippage to a minimum for heels and pumps. They should fit snugly and securely, otherwise you can put yourself at risk for injury.
- Your toes should not be pushing against the end of the shoe, rather there should be about a half an inch or more worth of space.
- Take an estimate of how much each style costs so that you can compare online. Online shoe sales and deals are plentiful, but there’s always an added cost of shipping, so make sure that you are actually getting a good deal by purchasing online.
Men’s Shoes
It might feel sometimes like there is just not the same variety for mens’ shoes as there are for womens’, but sometimes, even little changes can make a big difference. Check out some earthy brands like Tevas
or Birkenstocks
. Go casual to business casual with Thom McAn
, Timberland
Or dress up with Cole Haan
, Kenneth Cole
, Bally
, Hugo Boss
.
Even baggier pant versions, harem ankle band styles or cropped versions and utility chic trousers satisfy all tastes. Utility trackie/tracky/tracksuit bottoms have their place for casual wear and sporting activities. They come in various leg widths from narrow to wider to baggy harem style. This is the sort of trouser that women buy for slopping around at home and doing chores, then dash out to do a last minute supermarket shop. Make sure yours look good enough to wear out and that they flatter your figure rather than destroy it!

Above Left – Marks & Spencer Indigo Khaki Combat Trousers T54/5314 £35.00.
Far Right – Marisota Hareem Pant, Camel, From £23.
Centre – Plumo – Pocket harem pants in putty coloured soft jersey £49. This has been teamed with a Plumo coin belt £98.
Plumo say their sash style belt with tie ribbons is made from slightly quilted, colourful, embroidered vintage fabrics and trims. The belt is beautifully tasselled with Indian coins and beads but due to the vintage nature, each belt will differ slightly. The size is L140cm and adjustable.
If you like this coin belt as much as I do, maybe the style will become the new Boho belt of 2010!
Wide Leg & Nautical Sailor Silhouette Pants
In total contrast for those who prefer wider leg looser formal more tailored pants, retailers are still producing many styles especially nautical influenced wide leg pants.
Wider leg trousers and palazzo pants fit well with cruise wear and the nautical holiday themed collections. And Autumn 2010 looks set to have a good mix of wider leg and palazzo pants so in darker colours they may become an investment piece.
Near Right – Hobbs Seymour Trousers, £119 – Hobbs Spring Summer 2010 Clothing.
Far Left – Take a closer look at Philip Green’s BHS clothing ranges. This well made value for money outfit will suit those on a tight budget.
Far Left – Bhs Blazer £40, Striped Top £20, Linen Blend Trousers £25, Bag £22 & Necklace £18. All BHS Spring Summer 2010 Clothing
Some people really don’t care if a bag is a fake as long as it looks like the real bag. As in all walks of life, there is no such thing as a free lunch. Pay too little (thinking you have a bargain) and you may get a bag in return, but the chances are it will be lower quality than you would hope for, worse it may not impress your friends. In fact all you do is waste money. You may spend £150 at an online auction thinking you have secured the bargain designer bag of the century, only to discover the bag looks so inferior that you won’t even use it and could instead have put that £150 toward the genuine official outlet bag.
Stamps inside labels on real bags are usually deeply embedded. Remember that counterfeiters will make fakes of any popular desirable brand name designer. China is notorious for not enforcing trademark laws, so factories are inclined to reproduce whatever item they choose. However, with the Olympic Games of summer 2008, China may be forced to protect its own official Olympic products and this may all be the start of a non Confucian attitude toward copying goods.
Made with cheap labour, but sold at authentic prices Super bags are generally the highest quality mirror bags that are sold by the handbag underworld. In Hong Kong, grades of replicas vary, so that Super A means really good whereas A grade is good and counter intuitively, AAA less good.
Just what does this mean to the unwitting consumer – it means an unscrupulous seller can simply say their bag is super A, 5 star, 7 star, triple A or whatever the current phrase is for the best replica phrase to mean quality.
The upgraded replica terminology may be employed by many counterfeiters, but few have the quality replicas that fool company staff.
Many sellers use the terminology, but don’t have the goods to back it up! The picture you are shown online may well be of an authentic bag, but online auction forum members regularly state how they have been duped and do not receive the actual bag in the online photo.
With logo fabrics check for obvious misplacement of the letters incorporated into the seams. Well designed women’s bags with logo fabrics never run the lettering into the seam lines. Design features such as LV lettering are never obliterated by for example, the image of a cherry. The whole design is carefully worked out so that fabric placement looks aesthetically pleasing. Observe how the cherries would intertwine in a controlled way with the lettering, which may be of 30 plus different colours, but certainly not as few as 8 colours.
Always check the placement of the hardware and the distressing on bags. Many designer bags have vintage effect distressing and if the design is intentionally soft, the bag will slouch in a certain way. If the bag is more formal, it will probably stand up on its own as my Dolce & Gabbana bag below does or as a McQueen Novak does, without any inner stuffing support and without kinking in the straps. The straps will be even in length and placement. 
You can also see in this final photo of my Dolce & Gabbana bag that when the straps hang down the design elements of the handles are as well crafted on the back as on the front. Look for good design elements. This bag has the Dolce & Gabbana name engraved into the rings.
Look for Shoddy Workmanship/Materials – On genuine bags, straps don’t have kinks, zippers match the skin colour well and the designer run of bags may only truly come in a very small range of colours. Very smooth and over shiny highly processed leather is often a sign of a fake.
Tell tale signs on unauthorized copies comprise minor differences such as the use of cheaper leather or left-over scraps and inferior, easily abraded hardware. Often the bags are made in colours and even designs never ever originally a part of a seasonal collection.
Look for Shoddy Workmanship – Poor uneven stitching is a dead give away on a bag that is supposed to be hand stitched by a craftsman. Bags of high quality made with natural tannin methods also often have a wonderful leather smell which softens down naturally with time.